Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
