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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.